Island Locks - Locksmith Courses - Lock Picking - Lock Opening - Locksmith Tools

@Members if you need to drill what Size bits do U use 5mm/bigger ?

Has anyone used Belzona moudable wood ?what do U use as a filler? 

NON DESTRUCTIVE ALL THE WAY... 4mm and i would hate myself

@Stu treat it as the worst nightmare you have had where U wake up in a cold sweat lol

You guys need to get over to Spain.. no lever locks!!!!! All euro profile or round yale type. But if I have to use on either of these then its 6mm.

Just drill as small a hole as YOU are comfortable with, that way you only drill once. I use a variety of fillers, some coloured to get a basic match of the door colour. I don't drill much but NEVER be embarrassed about drilling as a last resort, sometimes its the only quick way in. On warrants and the like speed is the important thing and they get impatient if you are picking for ages.

Did here a story from them of one locky (!!) whose first choice of tool out the boot (no van) is his drill and a 10 mm hole cutter. Never takes long to get in apparently!! Dont understand how he still gets work, I change a lock once in a blue moon and go through the third degree 

4 - 6mm for cylinders, and 4 - 8mm as standard for lever locks depending on the lock and handing. I sometimes use up to a 10mm, or even a 13mm dependent on the job and entry type?.

Filler - Just a basic wood filler but always dowell the hole first, then normally a repair escutcheon.

I use 6mm drill  Used  Belzona years ago ,it's good  but very expensive.I don't use it at all,you don't need it

Most of our contract work is euros/ovals so if time is an issue (repos) or they just wont seem to pick then generally we snap them. When we have to drill it has always been standard 6mm hardplate drill bits. We have the carbide bits and tubular lock cutters on board but have never actually used them.

Hey Stu, don't beat yourself up if drilling is the best solution USE IT!!! Not every lock will pick and depending on the job (private/warrant) time is of the essence, remember agents and fitters don't like to spend too much time at properties when forced entry is required. Also remember, if you replace a lock on a warrant you have to return the key. I suggest you use a different phone number  to your locksmith number and advertise it is a key return business. This way you cannot be accused of being the b***d who broke in to their home. PS Don't return he key whilst driving your locksmith vehicle (bit of a give away) 

Locks at times will always have to be drilled, most often the job and time dictating?

I was doing a Chubb114 yesterday for an estate agent, a probate job. The lock was pickable so gave it a couple of minutes, but due to time and the estate agent being in a 'rush' , the best option was a quick drill and lock change.

Dave at October 1, 2010 at 6:29 AM

Hey Stu, don't beat yourself up if drilling is the best solution USE IT!!! Not every lock will pick and depending on the job (private/warrant) time is of the essence, remember agents and fitters don't like to spend too much time at properties when forced entry is required. Also remember, if you replace a lock on a warrant you have to return the key. I suggest you use a different phone number  to your locksmith number and advertise it is a key return business. This way you cannot be accused of being the b***d who broke in to their home. PS Don't return he key whilst driving your locksmith vehicle (bit of a give away) 

good advise there dave, i will remember that

stu got a good cylinder puller kit can bring to jays next gig if ya want, let me know lad !

smith bros, I would be interested to see this tool as I have considered getting one as stand by. Hope to see you at next meet.

no worries bud, yours to play with, bring some wanky cylinders and wreck em !

I have a 12mm &16mm forstner bits and matching size wood plug cutters. drill a  neat 12 or 16mm hole in the door using the forstner bit, this leaves a 12-16mm to attack the lock with a hardpoint drill, then once the lock is open plug the hole with a matching 12-16mm pellet plug cut from the top of the door out of view (same timber with no end grain) , glue the pellet plug with pva taking care to align the wood grain, then chisel / sand off the excess and paint/stain for an almost  invisible repair.

I use the same system for any hardwood joinery, concealed screw fixings for a professional finish. Great for fitting door frames. 

Apart from  lock drilling, for door frames/ skirtings/ staircases etc - counter bore a 10-12mm depth hole using the forstner bit,  then drill and screw as normal with 5.5 - 8mm masonary drill / brad / hss drill as required and screw, Plug the hole with self cut wood plugs made using the plug cutter  and similar matching  timber, aligning the wood grain then chisel/ plane/ sand the plug to finish.

@Martin,thats a classy drill,fill&finish whilst giving you great access to hard plate,and a neat way with taking plug from the top of the door. 

Thanks Phil, it works.

So a hidden destructive / constructive entry.  Sounds good, but how long does it take you to do.